![]() 07/25/2020 at 08:35 • Filed to: e46, E46 things, Bmw e46, BMW, driveway mechanic | ![]() | ![]() |
\ Have started to notice a low frequency vibration that I can hear more so than feel, MOST prevalent at 75mph to about 80mph. It’s extremely noticeable on smooth road, but pretty noticeable as long as it’s not an awfully paved road.
I’ve replaced the entire driveshaft, flex disc, CSB a little over a year ag, along with engine mounts and trans mounts a few months back. As far as I can remember, 75MPH was always a very smooth operating range until recently.
There seems to be a similar noise when coming down through 40MPH, but I can’t tell if it’s the same or just exhaust.
The noise seems to be there mainly when maintaining speed & decelerating, but SEEMS to not be there under moderate acceleration, but that could be due to engine noise before the car shifts up. Under light acceleration, I can’t tell if it gets better or not
The noise is still there if I put the car in neutral at speed. It dissipates once below 70ish MPH no matter what gear, or state the car is.
I do know that my diff bushings are very much on their way out, as evidenced by the dry rotting I can see on it, as well as the clunk going from R to D and D to R, if that’s any help. I wonder the U joint angles aren’t happy with this, and if the noise is being transmitted more so to the front of the vehicle.
It seems to be coming more so from the front of the car, within the dashboard, so I don’t think it’s my CSB, or flex disc (also, like I said, those are newer). I wonder if my trans mounts either were tightened down too far, or not enough - I couldn’t access them with a torque wrench, so just used an open ended.
There’s also a chance that while my wheels balance fine, once of them may have a shimmy in it. I’ve had all 4 re-straightened at the advice of a shop when I first bought the car. All the driveline stuff has been done by me. Tires are only just over a year old, with under 10k miles on them.
Any insight ? Would looooveee to avoid having to drop the driveshaft again, and am planning to do the differential bushings sometime in the next few weeks, but damn, it’s been hot hot here in NYC and all I want is a smooth, quiet ride again.
Bonus - moderately - clean engine bay photo
![]() 07/25/2020 at 08:57 |
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One random idea: try swapping your spare tire on to each corner. It sounds to me like a bent rim. That'd at least give you a way of figuring out if it was a bent rim.
![]() 07/25/2020 at 08:58 |
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easy fix drive below 70
:P
![]() 07/25/2020 at 09:00 |
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Nice joke :)
![]() 07/25/2020 at 09:01 |
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Good idea. I need to have THAT wheel balanced too. It’s got a slight bend in the outside lip, and probably the original tire, or at least one that’s decently old. Grated, no dry rot since it’s not in the sun or elements.
![]() 07/25/2020 at 09:04 |
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too easy not to.
![]() 07/25/2020 at 09:06 |
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Just make sure your spare is rated for up to 70 mph before you drive that fast on it. Even better if you have a second set of rims and tires, and use a full-size one to swap out.
![]() 07/25/2020 at 09:26 |
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Any local friends with an e46 that would let you swap all the wheels out? Also, maybe a bad wheel bearing, or bearings?
![]() 07/25/2020 at 09:47 |
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How many miles on the tires? What brand? I notice on Pirelli tires as they wear they get kind of loud.
![]() 07/25/2020 at 09:52 |
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Spare’s a full size (same wheels as the 16"s that are on the car) so not too worried there, but thanks for looking out :)
![]() 07/25/2020 at 09:53 |
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Under 10k - Bridgestone Potenza Quiettrack
![]() 07/25/2020 at 09:53 |
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Unfortunately not - I did the front wheel bearings around a year ago, so can’t imagine they’ve already crapped the bed, unless they were defective but worth getting up in the air to listen to
![]() 07/25/2020 at 10:18 |
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Thru st arms.
![]() 07/25/2020 at 10:26 |
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No discernible play in the front control arms - previous owner had the big lollipop bushings done @ BMW around 20k miles ago
![]() 07/25/2020 at 10:34 |
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Every 20,000 sounds about right for BMW bushings.
![]() 07/25/2020 at 10:44 |
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On my car it was the drive shaft angle, but I was running a completely different rear end setup than stock, so I’m guessing that’s not it for you.......
![]() 07/25/2020 at 11:13 |
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I’m thinking this is still a possibility, based on the fact that my rear differential bushings need to be done. Possible it’s just not being held in the correct angle anymore when decelerating or coasting.
![]() 07/25/2020 at 11:28 |
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Heh. Yeah. Had E39 issue the other day. This
![]() 07/25/2020 at 11:36 |
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Mine was an oscillation at or around 75 under steady throttle, which wasn’t really that big of a deal until I drove i t to Indiana from Minnesota.....
![]() 07/25/2020 at 11:41 |
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Sounds similar...
![]() 07/25/2020 at 11:45 |
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Besides an exhaust leak, this is the same issue I am having. I think it’s wheel related, but I only noticed it after changing my motor and transmission mounts.
![]() 07/25/2020 at 12:02 |
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Interesting... I’m wondering if I overtightened, or undertightened, or even maybe somehow misaligned the trans mounts when putting them back in? I should have done them when I had the drive shaft out, because there was zero way I was getting a torque wrench in there to accurately torque those top nuts down. Auto trans, so way less clearance.
![]() 07/25/2020 at 13:02 |
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Have a roadforce measurement done on all 4 wheels. It should be below 13lbs
![]() 07/25/2020 at 13:03 |
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Or alternatively, turn up the radio
![]() 07/25/2020 at 13:09 |
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After replacing my drive shaft and guibo on my e36 M3, I got a vibration that came back. Turned out my guibo bolts came loose. Make sure they are very tight and put some loctite on them.
![]() 07/25/2020 at 13:19 |
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Get a road force balance. I had a balance done not so long ago (no issues that they reported) and still had bad vibrations so they road force checked it and found a warped rim. If you have internal tire failures like a separated belt it can identify those as well, and then the shop can tell you if it’s safe.
![]() 07/25/2020 at 13:54 |
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Do you have the original clutch? I had very similar symptoms and it was my clutch failing at 136k. Retrofitted a traditional pressure plate and clutch and rides like a brand new car now.
![]() 07/25/2020 at 16:40 |
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Automatic torque converter, unfortunately
![]() 07/25/2020 at 18:26 |
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How are the tie rods? Strut bearings? Struts? I currently h two e46s and I’m down to one e36 (from 3). Every one has had either 40-50 mph or 70-80 mph vibration at some point. 40-50 had been front suspension every time, worse in slight turns. 70-80 either front suspension or motor mount.
Can you feel it in the steering wheel?
![]() 07/25/2020 at 18:37 |
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Could be bad CV joints on the axles. If the vibration was closer to 55-60 I would suspect driveshaft issues. Could easily be poor wheel balance too.
![]() 07/25/2020 at 19:15 |
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Failing rear diff pinon bearinf or dry CV axle. Prob right side
![]() 07/25/2020 at 19:26 |
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I had the same problem on my 2000 323i. Seized/worn universal joint in the back of the drive shaft that caused rear differential to groan/hum at low frequency. Drained and replaced oil in differential but u ltimately ended up blowing seals on diff on either side. Replaced everything you have plus the rear differential(got low mileage used one) a nd problem fixed. Car still running smoothly with 350,000+ miles on it.
Another possibility (unless you bought a new drive shaft balanced at the factory) is that someone had the two halves of the drive shaft apart and did not put them back together correctly, causing the drive shaft to be out of balance.
Hope this helps
![]() 07/25/2020 at 20:27 |
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Ah, well good luck!
![]() 07/26/2020 at 01:26 |
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Ha ve you checked to see if your rear subframe has cracked at the mounting points that can cause your your angle to be off on your dif. Which could lead to a noise and driveability issues. Also try stabbing your brakes at low speed. Do you hear popping or a slight bang. If you hear a bang or popping check your lower control arm bushings. I would take it to a shop and have them shake down all the suspension, wheel bearings and so on. At moderate speeds does the noise get louder turning left or right. If it does that could indicate you have a bad wheel bearing. You can also jack up the front corners and spin the wheel grab the strut is there a rough vibration. That indicates again a bad wheel bearing. Which is also very common
![]() 07/26/2020 at 01:34 |
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Following. This popped up in my google feed and I’ve got something very similar nagging me to death. I can’t stand vibes idc how old the car is lol. Since someone mentioned torque converter, that’s where my interest lies. Mine began right after I put in new trans mounts- and comes from all around like the lowest note of constant bass from a subwoofer. Mostly under throttle, but seems as it’s slowing down as well now. Also noteworthy was I swapped the trans bushes because I was down there putting in my second Guibo in 3 years. Diff bushings are fine. Wheel bearings I’ve replaced, as well as a low mileage diff and new complete half shafts and driveshaft , so mostly similar to OP.
![]() 07/26/2020 at 03:55 |
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Just maybe, but I have the same thing maybe. It sound like a low pitch sound when I accelerate and get up to speed. I don’t hear it at idle or in neutral but around 2000 rpm I start to hear it. And definitely from the front of the car near dash area.
Kinda sounds cool, and I been thinking about it, it almost sounds like exhaust but I wondered why I hear it from the front.
Ayways, today I pulled my intake off and while I was doing that I pulled the DISA off also.
It was a pita to get off because the flap had broken inside the intake and positioned itself sideways.
Well, the O-ring from the DISA was bad, I saw oil residue inside the intake. So, I'm guessing this is what's causing that noise for me and maybe for you. I'm in the process right now replacing the Intake gasket and DISA O-ring and looking for new flap but I'll update if I don't hear that noise again.
![]() 07/26/2020 at 06:06 |
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Had that noise due to a bad U joint, but it was at a lower speed- already have replaced the shaft with a rebuilt one last year, so don’t think it’s the shaft - this noise is relatively new.
![]() 07/26/2020 at 06:07 |
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Feel it a bit in the steering wheel, but not a ton. I JUST did the front sway bar links, tie rods feel good, but with 91k, the car is on it’s original struts and shocks, probably could be done soon.
![]() 07/26/2020 at 06:08 |
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Yeah, will have the wheels re balanced. I noticed in the rear that the wheels aren’t perfectly rounded left to right, so may be worth looking at a new wheel..
![]() 07/26/2020 at 06:09 |
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Ah, sounds a bit different - mine isn’t RPM dependent, only speed dependent.
![]() 07/26/2020 at 06:10 |
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Front wheel bearings have been done - I do have to check the subframe points though, I haven’t checked in a while. No popping when stabbing brakes, but my wheel does jerk when stabbing brakes
![]() 07/26/2020 at 06:11 |
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Interesting. Same, it seemed to pop up after putting in new trans mounts for me as well - not sure about torque converter though, since it doesn’t seem to change RPM dependent / if I have the car in neutral at speed.
![]() 07/26/2020 at 10:37 |
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I had a similar noise and found that the tyres although looked great and balanced well had uneven wear. They had what they called scalloped, where a number of flat spots had formed over the surface. I purchased new tyres and fitted new struts as it can be caused by worn suspension or wheel alignment which allows the tyre to skip along the road. The noise almost sounds and feels like a wheel bearing failuer.
![]() 07/26/2020 at 11:41 |
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Definitely a possibility! I know the shop I had it aligned at was unable to do a perfect alignment because of needing new struts up front, so possible for sure. Need to do suspension sooner or later.
![]() 07/26/2020 at 16:35 |
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Trying replacing the motor mounts. Here’s one for you my E46 just started acting wired on me. Just they other day my tire monitoring system light came on but there’s nothing wrong with any of my tires. When it comes on, the acts as though it wants to shut off and it runs rough, it did shut off a couple of times, one being as recently as today. When I park the car and it has sit for at least 30 minutes to an hour the fault goes away, but as soon as I drive it, maybe about a quarter of a mile, the fault comes back and the engine acts like it's down shifts sort of and runs a little rough. I went to advance auto and did the engine diagnostic and it came back with engine codes p0339, p0014, p0491, and p1619. Any advice or idea on what might be going on?
![]() 07/26/2020 at 18:46 |
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Rear wheel bearing. My wife’s Caddy CTS made a low, muffled jet sound for months that steadily got louder. The sound only happened above 70 mph. There wasn’t any play in it, so t he only way I could figure out which side was to raise the back end and rotate the wheels to feel for any grinding. It was barely there, but I could feel it by comparison. Easy fix though, so maybe just do both. Good luck.
![]() 07/26/2020 at 19:26 |
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Sounds like driveshaft vibration. When you reinstalled your driveshaft perhaps you didn’t reassemble the bolts on the diff side in the same orientation. Some individual cars have different weight bolts to balance the driveshaft, you can tell if your bolts are special by their color. After that i’d check wheel balance.
![]() 07/26/2020 at 20:20 |
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If u feel in you hands it likely front. If u feel in your butt it’s likely the rear. Rotate the tires and see if it moves. Check suspension - tie rods, ball joints and most importantly contr ol arms. If those are worn it will allow a sympathetic vibration. The fact that it occurs at 75 and also at roughly half that speed is a clue. If it changes based on acceleration, coasting or braking it’s likely suspension. I dont recall if u r x drive... rear suspension also has control arms that wear out.
Good luck.
BMW... the ultimate dripping machine.
![]() 07/26/2020 at 20:20 |
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1 other thought... road force balance the tires.
![]() 07/27/2020 at 01:31 |
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Is it balanced though, out of balance drive shaft will cause a similar sound at resonance speeds, the fact that you said you heard it at half the speed points in this direction as well as you would be at twice the wavelength.
It’s definitely drive train and nothing to do with engine for sure. If the shaft had seized u-joint it could have caused damage in the differential. My money is on something with the connection to differential or the differential itself. Not a hard swap if you have a lift, but heavy as hell to hold in place til you get that rear bolt in place.
![]() 07/27/2020 at 08:12 |
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Very much hoping it’s not internal to the differential, but I could see it as a possibility. The shaft definitely was balanced when I put it in about a year ago - the car drove smooth as silk for a while, and then began making a different low pitched noise, which was fixed with new engine & trans mounts, which is why I wonder if it’s just the damn diff bushings becoming old rubber. Here’s a few videos showing diff movement / noises:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLiNUFQNGb5qB_21F6Ej1Lqd7mflduD4Gt
![]() 07/27/2020 at 08:13 |
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Just recently did engine mounts -make everything WAY smoother! No TPMS in my car , and (surprisingly) no lights
![]() 07/27/2020 at 08:14 |
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Hmm, will look into this for sure. Rear bearings are a boon on these E46's though :(
![]() 07/27/2020 at 08:15 |
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Would make sense, but in the E46, it’s recommended to replace the 4 bolts connecting the diff to the shaft - they’re ribbed and 1 time use. No way to assemble as such & car was smooth for a while.
![]() 07/27/2020 at 08:16 |
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Haha, surprisingly, VERY FEW (knock on wood) leaks :) I just replaced my oil level sensor for some weeping oil but other than that, the M54 is tight.
Not an X-drive, but know the car could use suspension soon. 91k, original shocks and struts.
Seems to go away under heavy acceleration
![]() 07/27/2020 at 08:25 |
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Vibrations at this speed are often caused by front end control arm bushings. I think BMW gives their bushing contracts to th e Play Doh corporation.
I’ ve owned an E36, E39, and E46 and they all had this symptom at one point... Consider buying a shop press so you can swap them yourself... I got one at Harbor Freight for like $150.
![]() 07/27/2020 at 19:30 |
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Yup could be that as well, diff isn’t so bad. Cheapest thing to try which quieted mine down for a while and helped me determine what to swap, is to change oil in differential. I drained and refilled mine with royal purple and it helped for a bit. Knowing this I could say it had something to do with the differential. I just happened across one with only 30k miles near me at the time and figured I would give it a shot. Sure enough, problem solved.
![]() 07/27/2020 at 20:08 |
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More and more wondering if it is something in the front end, the noise changes with acceleration, but I wonder if it’s just due to unloading the front end a bit. It really really sounds and feels like it’s coming from the front, but I know sound travels.